Wednesday, 26 September 2012

A Turkish Delight - Part II

For part one of this series, go here.

After a 5 hour bus ride through dramatic mountain ranges on tiny, winding, (barrier free!) roads, we arrived in Denizli. A humid, dusty and somewhat industrial city, Denizli's claim to fame is it's proximity to Pamakkule, the world heritage site notorious for its imposing travertine terraces.

The moniker Pamukkale, which is Turkish for "Cotton Castle", is more than applicable given the attraction's white, fluffy appearance. And if this natural wonder weren't enough to satisfy one's "experience" palette, perched on top are the well preserved ruins of the ancient Byzantine city Hierapolis, and a natural ancient swimming pool.

As you can imagine, it was quiet a day.

We started with Hierapolis, as it was at the entrance, and explored the ruins for about 2 hours. The hike up to the entrance of the ancient theatre (below) was a feat in itself, but the view was well worth it.

We soldiered on, relieved to be going down hill.

Eventually we stumbled upon the main promenade of the ancient city.

The main road through Hierapolis and latrine to the right.
The latrine at Hierapolis
Entrance to the ancient city and what used to be baths on the right of the entrance.

After nosing around here for a while, we headed for the ancient pool and arrived knackered and overheated, before quickly shoving our sweaty clothes in a locker.

Picture this:

You step into warm water with gravel underfoot. The deeper you wade, the warmer it becomes. The narrow river like entrance spills into a large pool, in which (thanks to a 7th century earthquake) submerged columns and ruins sit.

Humans bob up and down in the warm bubbling water like vegetables in a pot of simmering soup, and in the deepest, hottest corner (thought to be the source), the bottom drops out from beneath your feet to form a fizzy, almost belching trench.

It. Was. Amazing.

It is rumoured not only that Cleopatra swam in this pool, but also that it's mineral waters, fed by a hot spring, is a healer. The water is safe to drink and is used to make many beauty products (all sold onsite of course), and indeed there we're people filling empty bottles to take home with them.

We swam until closing time, and I can honestly say I felt like a new woman as I emerged. Gone was the grotty, sweaty shell of a human being that went in -  I felt refreshed, relaxed and clean.

We hurried to the travertine terraces, just as the sun began to go down and caught a spectacular sunset. The white surfaces blanketed in warm sunlight was breathtaking.

The bottom of the pools are covered in a thick clay like mud that felt oh so wrong, but lovely at the same time, as clumps of it stuck between my toes.

Many people complain that tourism has ruined the site, that it was much more beautiful before the Lonely Planet brigade began coming in droves. Some of the pools are slightly discoloured compared to the photos I have seen from years ago, (and many of the pools are empty, drained so that over time the sunshine on the surface can rectify this problem), but to me it was still a phenomenal experience. Unforgettable.


  1. I cannot tell you how much fun it is to come to your site and relive a holiday. Our day in Hierapolis has got to be, hands down, the hottest day of my 37 years of existence (and we didn't do the pool so you can only imagine).
    Your images are beautiful!

  2. Omg, yes! Im so glad someone else can relate! We thought we were very clever by starting at 3pm to "beat the heat". HA, the sun had other ideas lol! The pool was amazing, especially the deeper or "adult areas" as we coined them. Thanks for your comments!


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